Jackson Hole, Wyoming, with its laid-back vibe, town square straight out of a Western movie, and close proximity to pristine wilderness, is surrounded on all sides by ruggedly beautiful mountains. It's the unassuming, relaxed atmosphere that makes this idyllic mountain town the kind of place people visit once and never leave. Although that has itself become a bone of contention for locals during the pandemic, as remote workers who never left have driven up rents and caused an affordable housing crisis. In recent years, Jackson has gained a reputation for its small but mighty dining scene, although that too has been hampered by the pandemic and mask mandates. Jackson Hole is known for its world-class skiing, although not when I went in early December due to a conspicuous lack of snow. Nowhere is the imminent risk of climate change more clear and potentially dire than in towns based around an outdoor economy. And perhaps none are as remote and fully dependent on an outdoor way of life and outdoor tourism as the Jackson region. It’s worth noting that Teton, in which Jackson is located, is the wealthiest county in the U.S. and has become a redoubt against the coronavirus for the very rich to hide. The rural West lures many because it seems like a different world. It is wilderness without the snares and moral traps of the city, populated with mythical people –– the bohemian ski bum, the dusty cowboy. This romantic facade has been especially appealing during the never-ending pandemic because it connects visitors to nature (Grand Teton National Park is on your doorstep) and bygone small-town character, albeit a rarefied version of one. To study the buildings as you walk around town, you notice remnants of the Old West. Take one look at Jackson Hole’s “Welcome” sign, and there’s no denying that this ‘ol mountain town’s still got a yee-haw or two in its back pocket. Indeed, the understated dude-ranch vibe is exactly what attracts the Montecito crowd, with a rustic luxe charm that keeps its blue blood visitors feeling right at home. But the steel-wrapped modernist aesthetic of more recent architectural development feels more Malibu than Wyoming. It's no surprise that locals call it Neverland. Jackson is an idyllic paradise year-round, but I visited in off season which typically lasts from early November to mid December. For stylish rooms within walking distance from everything, the price is right at the Anvil Hotel, a renovated mid-century motel with an excellent restaurant, Glorietta (get the elk bolognese). The interiors are on point: custom cast-iron beds, Woolrich blankets, trendy brass light and sink fixtures, parquet flooring with kilim rugs, and a frontier-chic-meets-Western look designed by Brooklyn-based Studio Tack. Meanwhile, The Virginian Lodge’s vibe skews groovy Western: wood paneled walls hung with oil paintings of cowboys and the requisite amount of taxidermy, mauve carpets and a wagon wheel chandelier in the lobby.